Jewelry makers can combine raw materials to produce pieces, but taking an idea from conception to finished rendering takes a certain level of skill. There are many approaches to jewelry design, but most share fundamentals like line, form and texture as well as color and balance. Incorporating these tools into the design process is a major step for those who want to advance from maker to designer.
Jewelry designers must be proficient in a wide range of processes, including wax sculpting, casting, etching, soldering, weaving, and stone setting. They also use computer-aided design (CAD) software, which allows for rapid iterations and enables virtual try-ons for client sessions. The ability to design jewelry using CAD is essential for securing jobs and opening new business opportunities.
Although some jewelers embrace traditional artisanship techniques, such as carving, enameling and mokume gane, others prefer to work digitally. Some 3D modeling environments, such as SolidWorks, are tailored for engineering and manufacturing; others such as Rhinoceros and Grasshopper support parametric design with advanced tools for geometrically complex designs. Several commercial CAD programs focus on the specific needs of the industry, such as 3Design’s wizard-like workflow and extensive library of gem shapes and layout types. Firestorm shines for its handling of multi-gem arrays and organic forms, and it offers tools for texturing and embossing on curved surfaces.
Sketching is central to the jewelry-design process and helps to bring the ideas from the mind to the hand. Jewelry artists who focus on their drawing skills tend to develop more refined, original pieces. Often, these drawings are used to refine product specifications or to test the feasibility of new concepts.
The most critical thinking in the world of jewelry occurs during the designing stage. A great jewelry designer can melt a soldering iron or bend metal with their hands, but the true mark of a master jeweler is the ability to take an intangible thought in the brain and translate it into a tangible drawing.
A degree is not required for those who wish to pursue a career in jewelry design; however, this industry is competitive and requires a good deal of prior experience. The salary is also based on experience, location and the type of jewelry produced. For example, a jeweler specializing in heirloom-quality jewelry will typically command higher wages than one who specializes in costume jewelry. The responsibilities of a jewelry designer can vary from project to project, but the overall goal is to create an original piece that will be treasured for generations.
