Jewelery Design is the process of creating a visual model or blueprint for a piece of jewelry, usually in three dimensions. The design must meet a number of requirements including durability, cost, and appearance. The designer is often influenced by their intended user, fashion trends, and the properties of the materials used to create the piece. The designer may also be guided by their own artistic vision or a particular gemstone that inspires them.
Artisans have been designing jewelry since prehistoric times. They have been inspired by the desire for beauty, to impress others, and the need to express reverence, loyalty and remembrance. They have designed adornments for the head in the form of crowns, diadems, tiaras and hair pins. Ornaments for the neck and torso have included necklaces, fibulae (ancient safety pins), brooches, pectorals (breastplates) and stomachers. And ornaments for the hands have included rings, bracelets and belt buckles.
In this era of customization, jewelry designers are working harder than ever to give consumers what they want. One way is by taking a cue from the tattoo industry and reimagining jewelry as a new kind of body art. Ear stories—those one-of-a-kind earrings that tell a personal story or capture a sentimental moment—are gaining popularity, says Randi Molofsky, founder of For Future Reference, a brand development agency.
Other designers are bringing back mixed metals, which are traditionally worn alongside silver and gold. For example, FIT’s Jewelry Design program alumnae Beth Hutchens of Foundrae focuses on charms and sentimental jewelry that her clients can use to build their own ear stories. And Brent Neale Winston uses stones and enamels to create pieces that are fun, unique and colorful.
Balance is another element that is important to consider in jewelry design. The principles of balance—proportion, contrast, unity, harmony and emphasis—help the designer determine how to best showcase a gemstone or other component of a piece. For example, symmetrical balance involves placing identical elements on both sides of a central point, while asymmetrical balance is created by mixing different types of shapes and colors to create a more dynamic and contemporary look.
Jewelry designers are also focusing more on sustainability than ever before. For example, alumnae Nicole Lenart and Ana Luisa both make delicate yet artistic jewelry using only sustainable precious metals. Similarly, alumnae Sophie Bille Brahe and Danish-born BAR Jewellery both craft minimal jewelry using organic forms and recycled sterling silver. In addition, alumnae Sarah Kallergis and Jean Prounis make modern luxury jewelry with the environment in mind, using ethically-sourced 22-karat gold and repurposed diamonds. Overall, the greatest challenge for a jewellery designer is turning inspiration into a finished product that will resonate with consumers. And when they succeed, it can be very rewarding.
